Take the car to a high pressure (touchless) car wash and see if any water gets inside the cabin or the boot.Īccident-free history is very important for any hardtop convertible. Listen for rattling noises while driving with the roof closed. Get the car up to 60 mph with the roof closed and listen for excessive wind noise. Look for hydraulic fluid leaks – in the boot, on the headliner and around the hydraulic rams. If it isn’t, then the car may have been neglected or there is a leak somewhere. Ideally, they should be lubricated regularly – ask the previous owner about it.Ĭheck if the level of hydraulic fluid is correct. If it takes much longer than that, the pump may be on its way out.Ĭheck the condition of the roof seals. The roof should take approximately 25 seconds to open or close. ![]() Open and close the roof a couple times to make sure that it works. Also, check in the trunk underneath the spare wheel. Things to check regarding the Vario roof:Ĭheck for any dampness in the footwells and carpets. Your two biggest concerns are hydraulic system issues (mainly leaks) and weather intrusion (fancy name for a leaking roof). ![]() The hardtop “Vario” roof is operated by five hydraulic actuators, powered by a hydraulic pump. Few companies succeeded in making a reliable hardtop convertible that doesn’t leak and isn’t as complicated as an open heart surgery. Can anybody point me in the right direction to test the fuel pump without getting under the car and removing the cover? If I knew which wire supplies the pump from the K40 unit I could simply jump a 12v feed to see if the pump operates.The hardtop roof on the R170 is actually pretty good. The soldering on the K40 circuit board looks absolutely fine by the way. I'm guessing that the fuel pump should be operated by the closing of one of these sets of contacts, but which one? I believe that the pump only runs for the first 2 seconds after switching on, or when the starter motor is running, shouldn't I be able to observe the relevant contacts closing under those conditions? Manually closing the contacts on number 1 operates what sounds like a fan motor, and doing the same on number 5 operates the horn. Turning the key to the second (start) position has no further effect, so the contacts on coils 1,2 and 5 remain open. When I turn the key to the first position (ignition on) the contacts on coils 3 and 4 close (counting from the left, ie. ![]() I have uncovered the K40 relay thanks to Bazzle's post, but I'm not sure which of the 5 coils supplies power to the pump. I haven't yet taken the plastic cover off the pump to test it because that looks an arkward job. I always tell other people to take a logical approach to problem solving rather than replacing parts until the problem is cured, so I'm ashamed that I didn't follow my own advice!īefore I take off the fuel pump I need to find out if is receiving power. (I was fooled into thinking that the fuel system was ok because engine started the first time I tried it and ran for a short time, presumably because there was some residual fuel pressure in the system). I replaced the crank sensor but stupidly didn't bother to check for fuel pressure first, and I now realise that the car won't start because the fuel pump doesn't run, not because the CPS was faulty. I have a 2002 SLK 320 which has been standing for some months and now will crank but won't start.
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